With the current British summer still fledgling, next summer might seem a long way away, but Europe's 2014 menswear collections and their associated glimpse of the future are already done and dusted. Here are four of my observations from the shows.
Rounded sunglasses with coloured shades at the Jonathan Saunders presentation. This new shape is like Lennon specs but bigger and trippier – as worn by your zany aunt, possibly with coloured lenses. As if the psychedelic influence needed much more emphasis, Paul Smith's collection included not only such kooky shades but also sweatshirts featuring suspicious-looking fungi. The rounded lens has sneaked up on us to become a retro yet fashion-forward take on summer eyewear and a replacement for the omnipresent Wayfarer. Seen at Jonathan Saunders, Paul Smith, James Long, Dior Homme, Dries Van Noten and on the street at Pitti in Milan.
Prada menswear spring/summer 2014 collection. Photograph: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images Menswear designers' obsession with print is taking a darker turn in certain hands. Continuing Miuccia Prada's interest in 50s graphic prints, the louche palm leaves in deeper tones at Prada men's spring/summer 2014 show looked more like something your rockabilly tattooist would wear than cheery summer florals. The soft fabrics, layering of shorter sleeves over long and clashing print disrupted any idea of nostalgia. Also seen at Dries Van Noten, Gucci and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
Boilersuits appeared across the European menswear shows, here at Lou Dalton. Referred to as jumpsuits by some, I prefer the more gritty term boilersuit. The-all-in-one is floated by designers now and again, and is particularly fetching in denim, but has yet to really take hold as something men wear as a style statement. Lou Dalton had beautifully executed versions in her London collection; it was also later seen at Rick Owens, Damir Doma, Hermes and Julien David.
E.Tautz at London Collections: Men, spring/summer 2014. Photograph: Jonathan Hordle/ Rex Features Back for a second breath, because sometimes a new shape needs to take a few spins round the block to be really noticed. The oversized, boxy T-shirt – beloved of Milan's Marni and a staple of high-end fashion for several seasons – lifts the humble undergarment and male bedwear of choice to the status of a proper top, with scope for designers to create double-faced garments with contrasting, luxury fabrics and panels. Seen at E.Tautz, Matthew Miller, Agi & Sam, Paul Smith, Miharayasuhiro, Walter Van Beirondonck, Damir Doma, Kenzo, Givenchy and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
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