latest trends in 2014

James Long's cycling-inspired Beyond the Velodrome show was one of the highlights during London Collections: Men. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Rapho-Range via Getty Images

The new word to drop in men's fashion is "athletic". From Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton to London's Christopher Shannon and Humberto Leon and Carol Lim at Kenzo, the influence of sportswear looms large. Even Gucci, a label more known for its haute rock playboy went tech-sporty with neoprene hoodies and a jodhpur-tracksuit trouser. In London, James Long's cycling-inspired Beyond the Velodrome show was one of the highlights, with its mesh, sweats and nippy zip tops. Jil Sander's shorts were a similar shape to Long's – wide and loose. Suits are still part of the conversation but they're less dressy, less business, less traditional. Take the opening look at Lanvin – a rich blue suit with loose trousers and invisible fastenings, or Louis Vuitton's check suits worn with scarves bandana print for reference.

Florals on the catwalk at Prada, during the Men's fashion week in Milan. Photograph: AFP/Getty Images

In The Devil Wears Prada, Meryl Streep's character Miranda Priestly sarcastically dubs florals for spring as "groundbreaking". However, Mrs Prada has spoken and florals for next spring are hot – the designer threw flowers into her brooding, filmic look Hawaiian-pinstripe mashup with abandon. Gucci's dark blooms appeared on suits and knits, while the highlight at Valentino was a new floral-camo combo. However, the most convincing floral display came from Dries Van Noten. With a live drum soundtrack provided by Cindy Blackman Santana, the Belgian designer's models wore florals with just the right elegant-slouch factor. The catwalk styling isn't for everyone but those individual pieces will look wearable when they hit the shop floor. The floral alternatives? Paul Smith's mushrooms.

Vuitton's punchy red harrington jacket shown during Paris fashion week. Photograph: Antonio De Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage

"Let's be clear, Kim Jones, the menswear designer for Vuitton, doesn't need celebrities. His show is a hot ticket, full stop. His fourth collection, inspired by an American road trip, was another strong mix of hyper luxury with a dash of wit and an attention to detail that few designers bring to the table. Highlights included a punchy red harrington jacket decorated with Americana badges and a tie-dye parka. REM's Michael Stipe sorted the show music – a mini best of REM – while Beckham watched from the frow. The footballer apparently loved the eveningwear section, which included a mother of pearl monogrammed cocktail jacquard jacket. Runner up: Dr Spock AKA Zachary Quinto at Dior Homme.

Suit jackets with three buttons that finish higher on the torso crept back into the mix at Dior Homme in Paris. Photograph: Dominique Charriau/WireImage

The micro-trends are stacking up. A new focus on necklines began at JW Anderson in London and had airtime in Paris at Valentino (slash), Berluti (boat) and Cerutti (wide). Meanwhile, suit jackets with three buttons that finish higher on the torso crept back into the mix at Lanvin, Prada and Dior Homme. But the micro-trend with the most clout looks likely to be clothes that feature a thick stripe, a grid or some sort of graphic colour block. Carven, Kenzo, Givenchy, Lanvin and Wooyoungmi all dabbled with this look. See also pink-spotted at Paul Smith, Raf Simons and Burberry, and at Saint Laurent the Grand Palais was given a fuchsia makeover.

Versace's gladiator sandals. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Rapho-Range via Getty Images

In fashion's fiercest race, there's a tie for first place between Raf Simons ' YO-GA clutch and his no-laces trainer. Both of which are surely coming to a blog near you imminently. There is also a suitcase-off between the mighty Mrs Prada and her magical Hawaiian styles and Kim Jones's suitcase-cum-backpack, complete with tin cup and harmonica decor at Vuitton. Note: Vuitton also gave the humble clothes peg to fashion leg-up – corsages were held nattily jacket lapels to dinner with them. Meanwhile, Burberry's colour-pop leather duffle bags, Jonathan Saunders for Smythson briefcases and Versace's gladiator sandals are all strong candidates in this category.

A tatooed model on the Hermes catwalk in Paris. Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty Images

Haircuts are so last season. Even face paints at Givenchy or body stickers at Versace cannot compete with body art. That's right. From Dalston to Hermes, the decorated body is a key look right now. The poster boy for the look is the model Cole Mohr, a favourite of photographer Terry Richardson. Mohr walked for labels including Vuitton, Paul Smith and Ann Demeulemeester. Haider Ackermann's glorious first full menswear offering of rich silks and satins was also modelled on boys with lashings of body art, including Mohr.

Pop art-references at Raf Simons, Paris. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Rapho-Range via Getty Images

Raf Simons staged his hit show at the Gagosian gallery on the outskirts of Paris. The catwalk featured in mobile by Alexander Calder alongside work by architect Jean Prouve, which the models, in their brilliantly awkward outfits with pop art-like slogans, Erich Diserens through to a slowed-down version of "Pump Up The Jam. Carven's charming, colourful, boxy collection saw designer Guillaume Henry create an artist's studio set complete with a shelf of pottery. Christopher Bailey in his brilliant Burberry collection referenced David Hockney while one of the hottest hues of the shows was dubbed "Matisse blue" on Twitter. Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme cited the artist John Chamberlain as an influence for his metallic 2 poly, the trickiest bits of his otherwise sleekly minimal collection.

‧ Quitting smoking Donatella Versace, which is clearly a better fit for her athletic sports-hunks collection.

‧ Dolce Gabbana & 's latest love letter to Sicily climaxed with a rogue streaker.

Estonian werewolf Winny Puhh hardcore band at the Rick Owens show. Photograph: Francois Mori/AP

‧ Stefano Pilati, replaced at Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, delivered a comeback hit for Zegna with a sexy-minimalist collection.

‧ The performance by Estonian werewolf Winny Puhh hardcore band at the Rick Owens show provided delight or fright depending on your point of view.

‧ Slimane's Saint Laurent collection whiffed of rockabilly. Think Alex Turner at Glastonbury 2013 but with extra bandanas, stripes and some Pike boots.

Simon Chilvers is men's style director of matchesfashion.com

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